Adventures With a Taxi Driver: Cretian Style, no hands driving
Crete has always been one of my favorite islands. Ever since Zorba, the perfect climate, momentous beaches and friendly inhabitants have attracted the jet set and make it a sure win win proposition. During a recent vacation we decided to go a little offbeat and escape to the southern part of the island called Chora Sfakion or Sfakia for short. As we didn’t intend doing a lot of traveling we passed on the offer of hiring a car and had a taxi service pick us up at the airport. We arrived in Iraklion Airport at 7 P.M and our baggage was the first of the plane. That was surely a good sign. As we left the customs a thirtyish man with short black hair and a beard was waiting for us. He introduced himself as Kosmo. On closer inspection he looked tired, but I passed that off to him being Greek – part of the temperament thing! So the wife and I pack into the taxi, me in the back, of course,, and we take off. The first few minutes were fine, then the road started winding and winding. Kosmo, being the experienced driver that he was, never took his foot of the gas no matter how sharp the bends were. After a further ten minutes Kosmo got a bit peckish and tucked in to a bag of peanuts. No need to worry, his right hand handled the steering wheel perfectly. Then of course his mobile rang. My wife thought the whole situation awfully funny, but I must say that the sight of a taxi driver maneuvering the steering wheel between his knees is definitely not a laughing matter. So for the next few kilometers one happy go lucky Kosmo showed us how a professional taxi driver is able to drive no hands without speeding over the side of the cliff.
The last part of our journey called for a steep descent towards our destination. It was now dark out and visibility was almost nil at this stage. The ever winding road was had a clear white dividing line to separate the two lanes. Going around the corner it was impossible to know n advance if a car would be approaching the same bend from the opposite direction. This is when the worry beads come in handy. You may know them as simple beads that supposedly calm your nerves. To the experienced Cretan taxi driver, worry beads, or komboloi, have magical powers that allow them to ignore all white lines on the road and take the curves at 100 km an hour without blinking once. This off course didn’t do much for my blood pressure but then I had a whole week in front of me to unwind in. Now getting back to the airport, that was going to be another story. And a good kalinihta to you too!















